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January 28, 2010 There is something of a phenomenon of epic hysteria that precedes the restaurants of "celebrity" chefs, or as they were formerly known, simply, Michelin rated culinarians. Alas, no less than Thomas Keller arrives with epic fanfare and hoopla to Los Angeles, indeed Beverly Hills. What a beautiful room, and stunning bistro environment he has created amidst the age-old BH trattorias and steak spots. Hidden amidst the depths of Canon drive, this inviting and cozy marble encrusted and brass-laden dining room, sets the stage for eager gastronomes. We are greeted with a pleasant and Keller inspired napkin-menu. Well almost. Our napkins are draped in our laps, followed by the waiter unveiling this evening's menu, which served as the napkin ring. A parchment paper thin bistro parchment, consistent with Keller's other "second tier" bistro restaurants. We are presented with an other-worldly crusty baguette, which we tear apart and gobble. Sadly, we must track down a bus boy to detail its accompaniments- a white bean spread, accompanied with toast points, serving as a quasi amuse (?). The house specialty cocktail menu was inspired, yet we were rushed to decision, after begging off twice. We began with the cod "fritters," myriad olives, and foies gras. This may well have been the stand-out course. The fritters paired nicely with the Alsatian Riesling and were crispy on the outside and stunningly dense and fresh with pureed cod on the inside. The foie gras was as good as it gets. Paired with a fleur de sel and simple crusty baguette, and served in a mason jar, as would suit a Provencal country table. We were less moved by the poor pairing of a less than succulent and sweet sauternes. This was really shocking. I've never had this let down. The salads that half the table ordered were standard fare and adequate. Which begs the mention, why amidst this post 20th century phenomenon of menus filled with pounds of pork, served every which way, and standards as duck, veal, chicken, sea bass, beef and salmon, do we have to be let down by one as grand as Keller, himself? Granted this isn't French Laundry or Per Se, and we must calibrate our expectations, and perhaps that is what is inherent in this culinary challenge facing the great "top chefs" of north American cuisine. We must remember that, indeed, Bouchon, is Keller's high end bistro. Alas, it arrives in central Beverly Hills to fanfare unparalleled since Batali joined the Los Angeles food scene several years ago at Melrose and Highland with his Osteria Mozza/Pizzeria Mozza franchise. This sets the stage implicitly for high fare. Bistro or not. The Moules Frites main dish were served in a practical cauldron of broth and plump and plentiful. The accompanying pommes frites, which I had high expectations for, were thin and somewhat cold to the touch, and ultimately did not deliver. A big let down for a high-end dining room. The trout served over a bed of vegetables was flavorful and cooked well. On the other hand, the veal chop, a special off the menu, was dry, under-seasoned and underwhelming. The accompanying sweetbreads wrapped in cabbage was a refreshing delight. It is always appreciated in a fine dining establishment when the wait staff details what is on one's plate, upon its arrival. We asked, and were reminded what we had ordered, in detail. Wine service was generally solid. The sommelier pointed us to wines that were less money than the ones we inquired about. Searching for an earthy, yet fruit forward, balance wine to pair with our mains, the somm pointed us to a Grenache / Carignane blend from Languedoc. It was young and had a wonderful bouquet of nutmeg, cherries and spice. I would have appreciated some bread to cleanse my palette before trying the red, but this was delayed as it was being baked. Desserts were really a drag. Nothing exciting. Nothing interesting. And of the three I sampled, nothing great. The profiteroles were standard. The chocolate mini cakes, again, standard. The lemon tart tasted, off altogether. A dessert wine/ after dinner drink menu had to be requested. There was no mention of drinks on the dessert menu. We expected very, very good food from a Thomas Keller restaurant. What we got was, average cuisine amidst a sea of great Los Angeles restaurants, coupled with Hollywood waiter service. I would love nothing more than to report otherwise, but what a drag. Get Ham on Rye for Free >> Email us with your food or wine suggestions |
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